Sometime in May my friend Iain and I decided to try the Wy'East
route on Mt Hood, and Kerry came with us. This is quite an undertaking for
an inexperienced climber. When we got to the crater rim it was getting late
on us and progress was slow, especially where there was a thick surface
layer of snow with the bottom melted out by the fumerole activity there.
So we downclimbed the shortest line on Devils Kitchen headwall. This took
a while to set up, and despite the sunny day we were in a harsh cold wind on
the Crater Rim. I repeatedly checked with Kerry to make sure she was not too intimidated by the winds and steep terrain. She downclimbed the
steep hard ice between Iain and I, with only one lightweight ice axe. This
may be one of the bigger adventures I've ever dared take a beginner on.