Current Events, Photos, News, etc
Organized Trips Archive
Select Climbs and Trips
These are some of the climbs I've done. There are many more, of course,
but these are the only ones I've had time to write up and post reports
on. These are older trips, predating the modern era of easy internet use (with instagram, facebook, etc),
which I took the time to put reports together on.
- In June of 1997, while in France, I climbed the
Mallory Couloir on the Aiguille du Midi (Mt Blanc massif) with Bill
- In August of 1996 I went into the
Wind River Range of Wyoming on a trip organized by Kyle Williams.
Kyle and I climbed the Mt Helen Ice Couloir (with another climber, Brooke)
and the NW Arete of Ellingwood Peak.
- In August of 1995 I soloed the NW Arete of
Mt Sir Donald, which is by Rogers Pass in the Selkirk range of British
- In March of 1994 I climbed Polar Circus
(IV, WI-5) and the Weeping Wall
(III, WI-4) in the Canadian Rockies.
Slides and a report
is available from my partners web site -
Tuan's Mountaineering Page. On Polar Circus we had a large avalanche
from a gully above go by. Tuan was securely anchored to bolts at the
top of the route and was hit by the snow. I was on steep ice below and
watched it go overhead.
- In March of 1993 I soloed the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn,
in the Wasatch Mountains of Utah.
The trips below are from
more somewhat more recent years than those above and have been copied over from the
"Realtime" photos at
the end of the year. Aside from the few trips moved here in their entirety I select a few photos from most trips and combine
them on a page for the year.
I have often organizing a spring ski and a summer climbing trip,
and each trip has it's own full set of pages with reports and photos.
Winter trips have included Fairy Meadows and Great Cairn, summer trips have included Great Cairn and the Battle Range. Information on all these trips is available
from the Organized Trips page.
Guiding and Instruction
"What would a guide be without someone to lead? Good weather,
bad weather, easy, difficult, I need to sing the same tune as he. That
was the gift of our mountains. Climbing to the summit, one man does his
job, another is on vacation and the luxury of their efforts is friendship."
- Gaston Rebuffat
I have a separate guiding
website with information on various trips and classes including mountaineering
avalanche classes, climbs, desert trips, backpacking trips, longer
camping tours, and more. I have arranged classes and/or climbs in Oregon,
Utah, Wyoming, and Washington. Other locations are possible as well. A
sampling of the feedback
I have received is also there, and info/links of professional
Educational and Instructional Info on the Web
These links were last verified June 15, 2005. If you find any bad ones please
let me know!
Learn all about avalanches and follow the stability of the snowpack
in many regions via the Cyberspace Snow
and Avalanche Center.
I have some Mountain
Safety Notes under my guiding
Knots on the
Web has links to all kinds of things - knot tying, mathematical knot
theory, and knot art. Ropers
Knots Page includes an index to knots on the web - if you want to
look up a certain knot this extensive index is the place to go. And if
you really into heavy duty applications, you might be interested in the
Rigging page on Corvallis
Mountain Rescue Units web site. Now there is also an animated site showing how to tie various knots.
For altitude medical issues, the
Himalayan Rescue Association has some good information on their website.
The High Altitude Medical
Guide is an excellent resources and includes information which is
oriented towards physicians. More good basic general information and advice
can be found on the
Guide to High Altitude page maintained by Princeton's Outdoor
The Mountain Medicine
pages have good information on a variety of topics, including AMS and
the use of Diamox. The information is made available by the UIAA Mountain
some very useful information available on many topics, mostly related
to ropework and rigging. For an extensive collection of information on
vertical ropework devices (ascending and rapelling) see the
Devices Page by Dr Gary Storrick.
Other Climbing-Related Items
Climbing Humor Archive
Morbid Eiger History
(saved from rec.climbing re: historic deaths on the Eiger)
A news story in which I
was featured appeared in the Eugene, OR Register-Guard
As of August 1998, a photo taken by Tuan on our ascent of The Weeping
Wall is being used by
Soundprint on the web to promote the audio tape
Beyond the Climb.
(Tuan), with whom I climbed the Weeping Wall and Polar Circus, participated
in the fourth ascent of "Sea of Vapor", a WI 7 route in the Canadian Rockies.
report and a more general
report by Wayne Trzyna are available on Tuan's
"Cold Mountain" page.
Here are some of my favorite
quotes about or related to climbing and a really nice
poem which I picked up from one of the newsgroups a long time ago. And a Skiers Prayer by a priest in Verbier, France.
Some interesting historical stuff on the
Vaux Family and the "Canadian Alps".